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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.